Equal parts boisterous and serene, Gangtok rises out of misty woods and faces the revered Kanchenjunga. Between tiers of candy-coloured houses, shabby multi-storeys, chic cafes, modern restaurants, and bustling markets, countless cars zip-zap up and down the steep slopes. For most travellers, Gangtok is the gateway to Sikkim; it is from Gangtok that visitors travel to the flower-filled valleys of North Sikkim, the protected lands and wilderness of the Lepcha, and the alpine lakes that dot the old Silk Route. Our 2 days in Gangtok itinerary will show you the best of this cheerful capital.
THINGS TO DO IN GANGTOK
DAY 1: MONASTERIES, DIRECTORATE OF HANDICRAFTS AND HANDLOOM, MG MARG
🔅 Wake up early and head to Tashi Viewpoint to see the sunrise, then continue to Ban Jhankri Falls and onwards to Ranka Monastery (also known as the Lingdum Monastery), the seat of the Zurmang Kagyu tradition. Surrounded by dense forests, the Ranka Monastery is a sanctuary of solitude. Next stop: Rumtek Monastery, Sikkim’s largest monastery and the seat-in-exile of the Gyalwang Karmapa. Visit during the morning prayers; the chorus of chants and the rhythmic beats of the ceremonial drums creates a divine atmosphere. There are some eateries outside the monastery where you can have breakfast. 🔅 Nearby is the Deorali station of the Gangtok ropeway. Hop into a gondola—return tickets are INR 117 as of 2020—and climb all the way to the Tashiling station. Not only does the ropeway offer a magnificent view of the city of Gangtok with its patchwork of colourful houses clinging to the mountainside, but it also offers a view of the Kanchenjunga on clear days. From the Tashiling station, walk to MG Marg, the buzzing heart of Gangtok, for lunch at Taste of Tibet where you can feast on momos, shyapleys, and bowls of piping hot gyathuk. After lunch, visit the Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom (10 am to 4 pm, Monday to Saturday) where you can see and learn about Sikkimese handicrafts like thangka paintings, Lepcha weaves, hand-painted masks, carpets, and handmade paper made from the local algeri tree. 🔅 Spend the rest of the evening people-watching on MG Marg. The pedestrian-only stretch is lined with Gangtok’s most popular restaurants and shops but if you intend to shop for woollens, take the connecting staircase to Lal Bazaar, a multi-storied complex where you can shop for woollens (cute hats and mittens and socks, anyone?), apparels, and shoes (oh! those boots!). Also, fresh produce! Women sit behind towering piles of fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh leafy greens, wild mushrooms, kinema wrapped in banana leaves, colourful spices and foraged berries. Buy a bag of dimpled oranges and some local apples to snack on! DAY 2: TSOMGO LAKE, BABA MANDIR, NATHU-LA PASS 🔅Start for Tsomgo Lake no later than 9 am. Located at an elevation of 3753 m, Tsomgo Lake, also known as Changu Lake, is a popular tourist draw. The blue-green waters set against a backdrop of snowy mountains are picturesque. On the shores of the lake, you can see yaks. You can pose for a photo with a yak for a few bucks. There’s also a ropeway—Asia’s highest—that’ll take you to the top of the surrounding mountain from where you can get magnificent views of the lake. 🔅17 km ahead on the old Silk Route is the Baba Harbhajan Singh Memorial Temple. According to the Incredible India website, “The legend of Baba goes back 35 years when Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the 23rd Punjab Regiment went missing. A manhunt was launched and it took the army three days to find his body. It is believed that he himself led the soldiers to the site. The soldiers raised a Samadhi in his name and to this day people in the area believe that Baba’s spirit protects the soldier posted here. The Indian Army treated Baba as a soldier who never died and he was retired with full honours in December 2016.” It is believed that the spirit of Harbhajan Singh protects every soldier posted in these inhospitable altitudes.🔅 En route to Baba Mandir is the Nathula Pass. There is not much to see except the Indian army and the Chinese army facing each other in one of the most politically sensitive areas of the world. Be warned of the rarefied air; you have to walk up a long flight of stairs to reach the top of the pass. Reach out to the army, if in distress.🔅 You can lunch at one of the small villages on the way or return to MG Marg where you can settle down at The Dragon Wok for Chinese specialities, like sliced pork with black mushroom or mala chicken, or a bowl of ramen. They also serve sushi and bento boxes. 🔅 Walk to Rachna Bookstore, where you can spend hours exploring Raman Shrestha’s thoughtfully curated collection of regional literature and books from the northeast. We support local bookstores, whenever we can, and we have spent hours reading and relaxing here! If there are too many books you want to buy but don’t have luggage space, Raman will ship them to your address. They also have a café where you can grab a sandwich or a cup of coffee. They also accept orders for cakes and Japanese cheesecakes. 🔅 Later, settle down at Hamro Bhansa Ghar for a traditional Nepali thali with rice, dal, sabji, your protein of choice, and pickles. They also do a tongue-tickling aloo sandeko that you must absolutely not miss!In Gangtok, the ancient and the modern flow seamlessly into each other. Come for a whiff of cold Himalayan air, a taste of Sikkimese food, and a lesson in the history of Sikkim and Sikkimese culture. Cre: Two-together