While Pujo in Kolkata may be all about the biggest, brightest and most creative pandals, the erstwhile rajbaris and zamindar households across Bengal have managed to retain the traditional grandeur of Durga Pujo by holding on to their age-old practices. Far away from the glitz and glamour of the big city pujos, these family celebrations stand tall in the ruins of time. This year, revel in the spirit of the festivities by driving down to some of these provincial pujos packed with history. 🍄 Amadpur Chaudhuri Bari, Bardhaman Amadpur Durga puja This is a pujo where Maa Durga is treated to 14 varieties of mishti, and propitiated with a symbolic sacrifice of sugarcane. The Chaudhuri family has retained the fervour of the festival at their family estate in Bardhaman’s Amadpur village for the last 361 years. The house was built in the 17th century, and the architecture is a fine blend of Mughal and local sensibilities. The idyllic countryside replete with freshwater ponds and terracotta temples make for a charming backdrop. The present-day pujo was initiated by Chandra Shekhar Chaudhuri, a spiritual man, who had inherited large acres of land, and built several temples in the vicinity. The family ushers in the festivities with the beats of the dhol, instead of the traditional dhaak, and a live shehnai recital at the Durga bari, a separate courtyard built for worship of the goddess. On the tenth day, a lunch is organised for around 2000 people as part of a pujo welfare programme. Shiladitya Chaudhuri, who belongs to the 38th generation of the family, also runs a homestay on the property. Being a family affair, people are welcome to visit it with prior notice, he says. A pre-booked lunch buffet can be enjoyed on all days of the pujo. Driving distance from Kolkata: 1.5 to 2 hrs 🍄 Bari Kothi, Murshidabad Durga Puja at Bari Kothi How about a pujo with a touch of Jain history? Murshidabad, situated around 240 kms from Kolkata, was once the capital of independent Bengal, before it fell into the hands of the East India Company following the Battle of Plassey. The region saw affluent businessmen migrate from across the country in the 18th century, including Jain merchants from Rajasthan, who came to be known as Sheherwalis or city dwellers. It was Rai Bahadur Budh Singh Dudhoria, who constructed Bari Kothi, or “the palace of the elder”, which has been restored as a heritage hotel. Since the Sheherwalis are originally Jains, Durga pujo was never celebrated until 2021 when the festival made it to UNESCO’s ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ list. The seventh generation family members now host a five-day extravagant pujo in tune with the rich culture and heritage of the community. There’s lots to do — designing the alpana, conch blowing competitions and dhunuchi naach, to name a few. The highlight will be an elaborate fare featuring the royal Sheherwali cuisine, a unique blend of Rajasthani vegetarian and Bengali food such as kheere ki kachori, bajre ka khichra and kesariya boondi among others. Driving distance from Kolkata: 5 hrs 🍄 Bishnupur Rajbari, Bankura Patachitra of the goddess in Bishnupur There was a time when a series of cannon blasts marked the arrival of the goddess in Bishnupur, the former kingdom of the Malla dynasty that flourished through the 16th and 17th century. The firing of the cannon has been an integral part of the pujo since then, without which celebrations cannot begin in the terracotta town. The tradition has survived 1026 years at the Mrinmoyee Debi temple that was built around 997 CE, points out Jyoti Prasad Singha Thakur, a member of the 63rd generation of the family. The ceremonial rituals begin days in advance, and include worshipping the goddess on patachitra, an ancient art form painted on cloth-based scrolls, and then welcoming her inside the temple. There is no balidan or animal sacrifice. The mahabhog features the quintessential khichuri made of the finest gobindobhog rice along with a selection of vegetarian items. Driving distance from Kolkata: 4 hrs Contact: 9434178150 🍄 Rajbari Bawali, South 24 Parganas Idol being prepared in Rajbari Bawali Once upon a time, Bawali was part of the mighty Sundarban delta. It is on this stretch of mangroves, strategically located on the Hooghly river, that the Mondals decided to build their palatial home some 250 years ago. The family history is laced with stories of conquests and rebellion that involve the Mughals, and later the British. The Mondals were Vaishnavites, and not allowed to worship Shakti. Durga pujo celebrations started only when the three-acre property was transformed into a boutique hotel in 2017. The idea was to introduce people to an affluent zamindar family pujo, as “most of them are not able to experience the rituals either due to a crowded pandal or stringent pujo committee rules,” says resident director Mrinalinee Majumdar. The property offers daycation packages where guests can partake in the actual chores of pujo along with the priest such as cutting fruits, and distributing proshad. On Bijoya Dashami, even the men can participate in sindoor khela, a traditional affair where women smear vermillion on each other. An added plus: you can also take your pooch along. Driving distance from Kolkata: 1.5 hrs 🍄 Surul Sarkar Zamindar Bari, Birbhum Naru tossing at Surul Sarkar Zamindar Bari No matter how archaic they are, some customs give character to a pujo. The Sarkars of Surul, a village near the Visva Bharati University in Shantiniketan, have a rather unique one. On Saptami, the patriarch of the family can be seen tossing naru, a confection similar to ladoo, moulded by the women of the household from his first floor verandah. A crowd of devotees soon gathers to catch the sweets in the courtyard below. Nabanita Sarkar, who is a twelfth generation descendent, says the rituals have been followed in the same way for 288 years, and the occasion brings over 200 families of the lineage together. The idol is traditionally decorated with embellishments of shola, an exquisite craft made using the pith of a plant that grows in the marshy areas. Animal sacrifice is practised even today, following which the meat is cooked without onion and garlic, a preparation commonly known as niramish mangsho, or vegetarian mutton. The goddess is pampered with an assortment of sweets, fruits, lentils, chana or freshly-made paneer, that are neatly laid out in huge bell metal plates. There’s also paan. Visitors can request for proshad after the rituals are completed. Driving distance from Kolkata: 3.5 to 4 hrs Contact: 9434636372 🍄 Jhargram Palace, Jhargram A sword procession followed by a goat sacrifice—the goddess’ homecoming is a dramatic event at Jhargram Palace. Situated around 180 kms from Kolkata, is the lost kingdom of Malla Deb, where a 500-year-old Durga pujo is carried out in royal grandeur by the 20th generation of the family. Celebrations take place at the Savitri temple, a few metres from the palace, that houses the clan deity of Sarveshwar Malladeb, who was a Rajput general under Raja Man Singh I. Vikramaditya Malladeb suggests making a prior booking to visit the palace, however anyone is welcome to experience the family celebrations at the temple. There is khichuri and ghonto, a mildly-spiced vegetable mishmash that are distributed to the devotees here. Driving distance from Kolkata: 4 hrs Contact: 9932708295 Cre: Cntraveller