These imposing Cham towers date from the end of the 13th century. Built from brick as Hindu temples, they stand on a platform at the top of Cho’k Hala, an exposed granite hill. It can be furnace-hot here. Over the entrance to the largest tower (the kalan, or sanctuary) is a beautiful carving of a dancing Shiva with six arms. Note the inscriptions in the ancient Cham language on the doorposts. These...